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Hi Claude B.
I like Sony A6000 (and NEX 7 and 5N before) but there aren’t many new lenses for APS-C and I don’t like to test FF lenses on APS-C when we have FF cameras today.
Cheers,
ViktorHi again David,
I would like to mention also few interesting Carl Zeiss Jena Lenses…
Firs that comes to my mind is Biotar 75/1.5. There is also its Russian clone Hellios 40, which is still in production today as Helios 40-2.There are few more Biotars to mention, another mythical Biotar 75/1.4 and lens made for super 16 film cameras (apentaflex) – Biotar 50/1.4.
Among CZJ lenses we shouldn’t forget about wide angle Flektogon 20/2.8 MC and earlier 20/4. Also Flektogon 35/2.4 MC is very nice 35mm lens with short MFD which makes it almost macro in that regard. Flektogon was base for later development of Carl Zeiss Oberkochen and today’s Zeiss – Distagons.
There are few longer CZJ lenses with goodreputation such as Sonnars 135/3.5 MC or 180/2.8 MC.
Among portrait lenses there is also 85/2 Sonnar. CZJ produced lenses for many cameras and formats and it would take really long article to list all of their charismatic products.Best regards,
ViktorHi David,
until someone else hopefully join our discussion, let me propose few more lenses with “charismatic” look.Mayer Optik Gorlitz had many famous lenses, among which Primoplan 75/1.9 is one of the best portrait lenses of its time and has very unique rendering. Together with it you’ll find another Primoplan – 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8 and even small Trioplan 50/2.9 famous for circular bokeh, to be quite interesting too.
Meyer Optik Gorlitz produced quite few lenses that become a saught after collectors items. Such black Domiron 50/2, or almost mythical 75/1.4 that I don’t know if really existed or not are certainly one of the rarest lenses in MOG inventory.
Except those mostly expensive lenses, MOG did also few affordable ones that you might consider. Orestor 100/2.8 and 135/2.8 are both very nice and small lenses, while such Lydith 30/3.5 and Telefogar 90/3.5 are very specific in respective focal lengths.
Also Primotars 80/3.5 and 180/3,5 are not borring lenses.
Next time we can take a short look among CZJ lenses, where my favorite Biotars belongs.
Cheers,
ViktorHi Paul,
I sold my Loxia 50/2 and I am waiting for Loxia 35/2 for test. My note about pro photographer and out of focus shots is rather sarcasm toward artsy look, that some photographers try to force either via de-focus or via post processing (or other formal technique). Key to my point of view is – formality. I literally hate to see, when photographer is trying to hide lack of idea and/or content behind fancy image look.
But focus is one of the most important creative tools in photography and being able to take full control of it is more than pleasing experience, that no other E-mount lens can deliver.To answer your question, difference between focus by wire and mechanical coupled one is hard to express by words, and even harder to define, where that can become creative limit. In practice, I found much easier to make fine focus adjustment at wide aperture, let’s say at models eye iris, than with AF or focus by wire. Hope that makes some sense to you…
Regarding some shots being darker than other at the same aperture, we would have to compare shutter speeds too at the first place and also to consider often changes of lighting in exterior as well as light fall off, affecting camera exposure measuring. There are simply too many variables to compare lenses on a live model shooting outdoor in terms of technical performance. Only possible comparison is thus subjective – you either like one of the shots in the series more or you don’t.
That’s why my review has several situations including few controlled ones for some technical (objective) evaluation (however useless those test charts are).Honestly, any of those lenses is far beyond my photographers skills anyway.
Cheers,
ViktorHi Martin,
it could well be that 70-200 will give you different point of view. It’s a nice lens for sure and to be honest, I can’t see some dramatical difference in a subject isolation at this FL between f/2.8 and f/4. So for once, I am glad that it is smaller than my f/2.8 Canon and Nikon.Hi Martin
Loxia 50/2 has hard stops for focus (and accurate infinity, which is really great) and minimum focus distance is 0.45m.Regards,
ViktorSorry Alex, I haven’t check de-clicking at all. I am not shooting video so I didn’t really care about that feature and lens has already new owner, I sold it today.
But from what I have seen, I assume that aperture will be continuous – reporting increments of 1/3rd of a step no matter if it is in clicking or de-clicking mode. De-clicking seems to be purely mechanical thing.Cheers,
ViktorHi Alex,
aperture values are always properly reported and recorde to the EXIF.Cheers,
ViktorHi Tero, I agree that automatic aperture have its advantages, no doubt about it.
That Otus 85/1.4 is a killer lens, but so is its price. At that focal length, refraction caused by Sony sensor toppings wouldn’t affect lens performance by much, but I would still like to have one with Loxia optimization 🙂 or would use it with Nikon D800E/D810 to get most out of it. Lens is huge though and quite heavy, but there are really no traces of any kind of CA, it is razor sharp and it has very creamy bokeh. With Zeiss micro contrast and colors it worth selling arm or leg 🙂Cheers,
ViktorHi and thanks for your comment.
Are you sure that Zeiss ZE lenses have aperture rings? None of my Zeiss ZE (28/2, 21/2.8, 35/2, 50/2 Macro) has it 🙁 I think that Nikon ZF has it, but there is no electronic adapter for Nikon.
Otherwise I agree that if you get used to wo focusing in low light, it might be annoying. Maybe there is some work around, I didn’t think about it, because at low light levels I used lens wide open anyway.
On the other hand, real manual focusing with hard stops is a gods gift in the dark, when all you need is to focus to infinity.Cheers,
ViktorThank you Tongram, your support and kind words means lot to us here.
Hi Tongram,
I just got a second to look at it and I can confirm that you can see the f-stop number in the EVF (LCD) while you change the aperture on the lens itself.Hope it helps.
Cheers,
ViktorHi Tongram, I will check it out today and will let you know.
Cheers, Viktor
Hi Martin, sorry for the late reply. Those are all lenses that I made myself using as a base some very cheap projector lenses and changing few elements, usually front or rear ones. I also cut the barrel to create space for adding home made apodizing filters. Lenses looks terrible now, but they are capable of some very interesting bokeh as you can see. Here is another one based on 50mm f/1.0 projector lens.
Here is another shot with the same lens
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