Zeiss APO Sonnar 135mm f/2 (ZF.2) Review
As written many times before, MTF charts are usually based on close to minimum focusing distance of the lens. Changing focus plane might influence “sharpness” significantly, almost like stopping lens down one or more stops.
Testing lens for medium and infinity distance in a field, is however very tricky, and such tests should be always taken with a grain of salt.
In the following example I would like to show you why this is so tricky and why you should be careful, making any conclusion based on real life shots.
Bellows are two shots taken with two different lenses in en effort to compare sharpness at infinity. Because infinity mark on the lens doesn’t correspond with actual focus plane on neither lens I had to focus using magnification on LCD screen.
Lens A
Lens B
While they both looks acceptably sharp at this size, it is enough to shift the focus for less than 1° and results at pixel level will be compromised. Outside in the direct day light, even using hood loop for LCD makes critical focusing… critically difficult. While closest subjects in the images are over 70m far and further around 100m and that should be well into DOF for those lenses in theory, when looking at pixel level… forget about theory.
Maybe less than 1°caused those differences in 100% crops. Left is lens A, right is lens B.
Critical focus is just one of the problems that can be expected. Focus breathing and related difference in FOV, lighting conditions that keeps changing during test, temperature, humidity and other aspects that can affect visibility at longer distances and many other variables are just some of the reasons why real life tests shouldn’t be taken too seriously, when judging or comparing “sharpness”.
On the other hand, when there is time to repeat enough different tests, there will be good chance to minimize those variables in order to come to conclusion if the lens is rather sharp or not.
Among three lenses that I compared so far – Zeiss, Samyang and Nikkor, only Nikkor stays slightly behind in terms of sharpness at medium to infinity distances and rather in contrast than resolution itself. Adding much more pronounced CA in Nikkor 135/2 AF DC, makes this older design somewhat insufficient for large resolution modern sensors at its widest aperture, but on the other hand, those lenses are mainly portrait lenses and as we would be able to see in one of the following chapters, slight softness wide open is not always bad thing.
Stopping Nikkor down to just f/2.8 significantly improves its sharpness perception, and from f/8 it is hard to tell lenses apart in both resolution and contrast.
When it comes to sharpness differences between Zeiss APO Sonnar 135mm f/2 ZF.2 and Samyang 135mm f/2 ED UMC ZF.2, I have to say that they are field irrelevant IMHO. Zeiss kept slight edge wide open in most of my tests, especially moving further from the center, but that edge is really very thin and resulting sharpness will be much more affected with other things mentioned above (critical focus, visibility conditions, lighting).
As I wrote at the very beginning of this review, Zeiss APO Sonnar 135mm f/2 is one of few lenses that can be used wide open even for landscape shots e.g. without sacrificing much sharpness.
Let’s look at this image e.g.
I made 100% crops from related zones (A,B,C,D) in the large composite image bellow, to show how little differences in sharpness can be observed through the whole aperture range.
You will notice that from f/16 diffraction starts to affect sharpness, but believe me, even f/22 can be used with additional sharpening for very large prints. In this case however, there won’t be many situations, where you will need more than f/5.6 for usual landscape composition and that (and f/4) is at the peak of lens performance anyway.
Bellow is set of comparable images between tested lenses.
Zeiss vs Nikkor at f/2
Zeiss vs Samyang at f/2
Zeiss vs Nikkor at f/2.8
Zeiss vs Samyang at f/2.8
Zeiss vs Nikkor at f/5.6
Zeiss vs Samyang at f/5.6
Original size files of test posted above are in this Flickr collection – https://www.flickr.com/photos/97543230@N02/collections/72157651629343231/ if you wish to explore them more in detail. This test images were focused at near to infinity distance. While at close distance Zeiss had narrower FOV, at medium and infinity distances it seems that some focus breathing enter the game, because it gets closer to original Samyangs FOV, while Nikkor keeps its real FOV best of the three and become narrower among them (larger magnification). I am lazy to measure focus breathing because it is not significant, so I am happy just to know about it. It shouldn’t make any difference in a real life shooting though. (It also make sense to get largest magnification possible at close distances while at infinity it shouldn’t matter). In another of many comparative tests that I did, I tried to compare sharpness at infinity. Here is test image with marked zones. Bellows are 100% crops compared directly between lenses. At f/2 At f/2.8 At f/11 Similar pattern can be observed on those images. Zeiss has slight edge wide open and Nikkor lags behind both. Already at f/2.8 Nikkor improves a lot while Zeiss and Samyang are hard to tell apart. At f/11, I really don’t see much differences in terms of sharpness among those three lenses. At medium distance, I checked only for mid frame sharpness and conclusion is basically same as with long and infinity focus distances. Zeiss vs Nikkor at f/2 Zeiss vs Samyang at f/2 Zeiss vs Nikkor at f/5.6 Zeiss vs Samyang at f/5.6 To check for diffraction at smallest aperture I compared Zeiss and Samyang at f/22 (Nikkor goes only to f/16) Zeiss vs Samyang at f/22 There are of course many more 135mm lenses. Together with 50mm and 35mm FL, 135mm is probably most represented focal length for 35mm format and there are often at least two models from most producers. From those interesting lenses that I would suggest to think about, I picked another three for a simple f/8 landscape shot. Additional lenses are Sony Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm f/1.8, amazing lens available only in Sony A mount, even more charismatic and not often mentioned Sony (original Minolta design) 135mm f/2.8 STF (T4.5), and mighty Canon EF 135mm f/2 L USM, living legend among 135mm lenses. To make such a comparison bit more fair, I tested lenses on Sony A7 camera with appropriate adapters. Following image shows 100% crops from respective zones. In a conclusion, from all tested lenses only Nikkor 135 f/2 AF DC stay a bit behind at wide open apertures, but where Zeiss and Samyang takes a lead is in CA department. Stopped down to f/5.6 and smaller almost erase sharpness differences among tested lenses and at those apertures each one of them will deliver superb results. Advantage of Zeiss APO Sonnar 135/2 and Samyang 135/2 ED UMC is in their optimization for wide apertures, which makes them attractive alternative for all shots were sharpness across frame is required but light level is rather low. This and brilliant control of CA, makes those two lenses standing above the others by some margin in this respect. There is of course much more than lens sharpness. In the next chapter we will take look at flare resistance and bokeh. Please help support this page and upcoming reviews and buy through affiliate links, with no extra cost for you: Buy on Adorama: 135mm f/2 Apo Sonnar T* ZF.2 Lens for Nikon F Mount Buy on Amazon: 135mm f/2 Apo Sonnar T* ZF.2 Lens for Nikon F Mount BEST OFFER! To help this page survive, your donation will be highly appreciated.
Buy on BHPhoto: 135mm f/2 Apo Sonnar T* ZF.2 Lens for Nikon F Mount
Hi. Was just curious as to which D/SLR would be suitable (not at fault regarding precise focus) at achieving critical focus with the Ziess 135mm f2 manual focus lens wide open, with its shallow depth of field. quickly without viewing aids. Especially do to my weakening eyesight as I age. For I do appreciate fine quality, but only when practical. Dennis
Hi Dennis,
using manual focus lenses with recent DSLR cameras is very tricky… There are some after market split screens such as – http://www.focusingscreen.com/work/d800en.htm
but using it will probably cause lot of troubles related to exposure or super imposed information in viewfinder.
Another option would be to use rear LCD with a hoodman or similar loupe and camera in live view mode (similar as it is used by videographers). In that respect I would suggest recent Nikon flagships such as D810 and D750 because they are using higher quality/resolution screens.
You can of course use mirrorless cameras such as Sony A7 series, if you don’t mind lack of EXIF, iTTL and compressed RAW.
I have solid success in using my regular viewfinder with DH17 magnifier view-piece and rubber eyepiece.
Initial focusing is just a part of the problem though, because DOF is so thin, that slightest movement of you or yours model will result in blur, especially at pixel level. There are nice software tools recently for repair of small motion blur such as shake reduction in photoshop CC or piccure + e.g.
Finally, it’s also about technique that will best suits your shooting style. I tend to use high speed drive mode (3-4 frames per second) whenever possible. When acquiring critical focus (or what I believe it should be) I take deep breath (which moves me slightly backward), fire the shutter and keep blowing the air out (which moves me slightly forward). At SS from 1/200s and faster I usually manage to have 1-2 sharp images in the series.
Cheers,
Viktor
One of the best reviews i ever read, much better than any done with in lab measurements. The Zeiss is not for me, i came here searching for reviews of the Samyang 135/2, which i now own (my 5th Samyang).
Keep the excellent work going!
Tomas
http://www.pbase.com/tomasg_71
Thank you very much Tom, I think you made great choice with Samyang.
Cheers,
Viktor
Very good review. I always was reluctant to get a Nikkor 135/2 dc due to color shift or lack of sharpness wide open. In a recent thread at Dpreview a very well respected photographer showed excellent images with sharpness and contrast better than the 70-200/2.8 vrii, a lens which is well respected. I pointed her to your blog and asked about her test, which didn’t show this softness and color shift. She explained that the Nikon lenses have oftentimes a problem with the DC ring. It is not perfectly calibrated (Nikon confirmed) and needs to be offset. Having found the “true” dc-ring position the results are excellent even wide open. Nevertheless, doesn’t change the fact that the Zeiss 135/2 is one of the best lenses out there.
Hi HF,
thank you for your comment.
I tested DC ring calibration prior to this test (right after the purchase) and what was presented here, was best wide open result, that I was able to achieve with the lens 🙁
I also tried two copies prior to purchase and this one was better of the two (sharpest in the center).
This doesn’t mean of course, that someone else can’t have better luck with its sample.
Other reason might have something to do with specific lighting conditions and distance to the subject.
I haven’t tried 70-200 f/2.8 VR II, we don’t have this lens, nor we have any contact with Nikon to get a testing sample, so I can’t comment on that, but I assume that comparison was made at f/2.8 and most of our results here were captured at f/2.
Zeiss is a fantastic lens for sure, but all of the lenses tested here are exceeding my photographic needs and skills anyway.
Cheers,
Viktor
Great review of Zeiss 135mm APO lenses and comparison (both lab and field) for the other 2 Nikon mount 135mm lenses. I got a 105mm F2 DC which is not as razor sharp as Zeiss 135mm APO (nor makro planar 100mm), but with a nice rendering skin tone. Thus my wife prefers the Nikon 105 much more than the Zeiss, because most of the time, girls don’t want to reveal the tiny defects on their face. Anyway, all great lenses but with definitely different emphasis.
BTW, the external purchase link seems to be messed up between Amazon and Adorama.
Hi Victor,
I like those Nikon DC lenses too. 105 DC is very nice lens indeed.
Thanks for the link warning, I will ask our IT guy to check it out.
Cheers,
Viktor
I have both the 135mm Zeiss and the 135mm DC Nikkor.
The are both fantastic wide open on my D600 or D810.
The DC Nikkor gives you Bokeh softness control to your
personal taste. Great review.
Hi Paul and thank you for your comment. I agree, they are both lenses with unique “signature”.
Cheers,
Viktor
Great review and good comparison. It almost feels like the Zeiss is good yet the vfm makes the Samyang a brilliant lens.
I had the Canon version of this lens and loved every single picture out of this lens. the color and pop are nothing short of amazing.
Is Samyan similar in that feel? From the pictures on close ups it does look like Samyang is sharper but as an overall picture there is something about the zeiss.
Is it just me ?
Hi Mark,
Samyang has somewhat warmer rendering (toward red) and build quality is nowhere near Zeiss. But that’s about it, and in a real life, I doubt that many will notice any resulting differences, when lenses are compared next to each other.
Zeiss is however tremendous lens in every aspect and beside giving the photographer outstanding optical corrections it is joy to use, especially when it comes to the manual focus speed and precision. (Tactile and responsive feeling is very important for MF)
Cheers,
Viktor
I agree with everyone here saying what a great review this was. It was exactly what I needed. I purchased the 135 DC about 6 months ago, and as much as i’ve been loving the bokeh, it bothers me that i have to shoot it at 2.5 (neutral) to get anything even close to usable in my standard, even then its not as sharp as i would like it.
So my next thought was… What could I replace it with, and the only two options i found were these two. My question to you is if you’ve found the overall contrast to be lower with the samyang? As well as the colors being too warm? I have a Rokinon/samyang 24 tilt, and the overall contrast seems low and flat… with the colors been quite warm. that being said I’m also aware that the 24 tilt isn’t exactly known for being sharpest lens.
I do use a color checker, so the colors can be calibrated, but its obviously not the best starting point if you know what i’m saying.
Hi jp,
thank you for the comment.
Regarding contrast, I can’t say it’s lower than Zeisss. In my eyes it’s on par (micro contrast I mean) and even in direct back light situations it holds well (that’s the area where Zeiss is traditionally very strong)
Color shift toward warm tones is obvious though and I wrote about it. I won’t find this as a deal braker, if you are not planning to:
a) use several primes per project (wedding eg.)
b) shot video often.
In both cases, you might find color shift correction in pp annoying and time consuming.
Hope it helps,
Viktor
Wow, i didn’t even notice your review was multi pages of indepth review! I didn’t see the color page. Now it leaves me questioning about the angle of view thing. Would you say that it really is just that close focus quote? I already have an 85 and i need the 135 to be a good step from eachother, otherwise i have a bit of redundancy in my bag. In part I’d like to be able to shoot Wide open for the best bokeh, but also to be able to let as much light as possible in dim churches (weddings). It makes me wonder if the vignetting on the ziess wide open cancels out the bright nikkor stopped down to f/2.5 (for usable sharpness)
Hi jp,
I would say that having 85 and 135 is a bit redundant in most situations, but to which FL is more useful, only you can find the answer. If you have any (even cheap manual zoom form 80′) something like 80-200 and similar, you can take it out for a week or so at 85 and later at 135 FL and simply get idea of what was more pleasing experience (you can use duct taoe to fix FL).
Thing is, that there will be always something longer with larger compression and smoother bokeh (resulting from shallower DOF).
My prefered FL are 14,21,28,85,200 mm, but lot of people will go with something like 16,24,35,50,85,135,200
I don’t feel a gap between 85 and 200 but YMMV. However, not so long ago, I prefered 135 over 85, so preferences are not only individual, but they are evolving in time.
If I have enough distance from the subject and I am after smooth background, it is hard to beat Canon 200/2 L IS (Nikon has similar lens), but I am loosing any kind of intimacy with the model. Image become “distant”, aesthetically impressive but emotionally a bit empty. Getting closer to the subject reveals more of the model personality and brings it closer to the environment. Simply said – 135 and longer are for studio like set-ups (even on location), while 100 and bellow are better (IMHO) for environmental portraits.
To get close to (almost equal) sharpness of the Zeiss/Samyang in the mid frame, you’ll need to stop nikkor to at least f/4. But using Nikkors Defocus Control, you can actually make your subject more isolated (from the background) in some situations, even if sharpness in general is lower.
It is always hard to give a good advice on a subject of lens choices, because we are all suffering fron GAS (or let’s say LAS in this case) and excitement of getting new “toy” often surpass any rationals behind.
I am testing and preparing review of new Milvus 50/85 vs comparable Planars and Otuses.
I don’t need any new lens for my job, but after seeing those lenses compared I ordered Otus 85/1.4. Why? Because it has best correction of CA that I ever saw on lenses bellow 200mm and because I knew that I will never be satisfied till I don’t get “best” 85. (Best optical correction I mean).
In a result I probably saved some money, jumping over Milvus (which is BTW excellent lens too), but I spent a fortune for the lens that in a real life, won’t change quality of my images. (At least not to the level that my clients could recognize)
If you really need 135, go with Zeiss. It is the best you can buy recently in that FL and if you don’t need it or you are not sure about FL, try cheap zoom as I suggested or try Samyang because you will loose less in case of re-selling.
Just my 2c.
Cheers,
Viktor
Yeah, I deffinently feel like 85mm is more practical in many situations, but I prefer 135 for a tight headshot/head+shoulders. I just think that the 85 isn’t compressed enough for those type of images. Thats why carry both, 135 if i can… 85 if I cant. 70% of the time my camera has the 85 mounted on it, but i roll with a 20-50-85-135 right now (outside of specialty tilt and macro’s), some day i’ll pick up a 35 but I’m really not a fan of anything in the 24-70 range… its like theres a lack of pizaz, but also not too flattering either…
money is actually tight, even though I do have the DC, it would be quite a hurdle to sell the dc for $800-$900 and turn around and buy a $1800 Zeiss. Thats obviously why the Samyang is so attractive, but its like “is it worth it?” I’d be getting funky colors, and greater vignetting, and possibly loose a fair amount of FL, and obviously AF to switch to the Samyang. IDK i sit at a crossroad and your artical is top notch!
Thanks jp and good luck with your choice. On a positive side, you can hardly make critical mistake those day. Oh and if you want maximum isolation at 135, how’s about – http://www.zyoptics.net/product/pre-order-mitakon-speedmaster-135mm-f1-4/ 🙂
Cheers,
Viktor
Holly HOLGA Batman, that is a fast 135!
Yeah… It’s very compact and light too…
I would love to test it though, but with only 100 pcs. planned for production, (or maybe that’s just marketing trick?) I would hardly be able to put my dirty hands on it. Dpreview tested preproduction sample and if I remember correctly, they were kind of positive.
Cheers,
Viktor
Thanks for the review. Looks like I am putting my money in the Samyang, same sharpness and better bokeh/separation for a quarter of the price.
In the color rendering test, the Zeiss image is actually from the Samyang.
Color rendering is the most important difference between the two lenses as far as IQ is concerned, so that should be corrected.
^^^ I mean the one with WB corrected.